Croque Monsieur (It's More Than a Ham and Cheese Sandwich)

Linda explores food facts, folklore, and fabulous recipes, one ingredient at a time.

Our story begins on the Reu des Beaux Arts, a centuries-old cobblestone street in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris. Although the sidewalks are filled with pedestrians—apartment dwellers, shoppers, tourists—the real activity is below the surface. Two repairmen shiver in a cold, damp basement, their frozen breath hanging in the air like vapor over an icy lake.

At long last, the aging furnace of L’Hotel shudders and groans as it sparks to life. Smiles and laughter; the job is complete. The men wipe their hands, gather their tools, and make their way through a subterranean labyrinth to the exit.

A noisy radiator is now emitting a welcome warmth, and near that heater sits the men’s lunch pails. The baguettes inside have warmed with the heat, the ham is fragrant, and the cheese is melted.

The above story is a total fabrication, a whim of my imagination, but there are many who have accepted the legend that careless workers (isn’t that always how the story begins?) left their lunch atop a radiator which heated the contents and croque monsieur was created. Although this is probably nothing more than an urban legend, L’Hotel is real, and it is very near the place that claims to be the actual birthplace of the sandwich.

Café Procope was established in 1686 by chef Procopia Cutò in the heart of the Latin Quarter on Rue des Fossés-Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Voltaire dined there (his oft-reserved table now set aside as a ”shrine”). Thomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin were regular guests, as were Honoré de Balzac and Victor Hugo. It is any surprise that the croquet made its first “published” appearance in Volume II of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time?

The name itself, croque monsieur, roughly translates to “crunchy mister,” and was a common mid-morning snack or brunch offering in early 20th century Parisian cafes. What sets this sandwich apart from all others, what makes it so much more than mere “ham and cheese” is the blanket of béchamel sauce.

1. Bread

Of course, the foundation of the perfect croque begins, literally, with the bread. This is not the place for a study 12-grain. Resist the urge to choose an artisanal loaf with a crunchy outer crust. White sandwich bread, sliced no more than 1/2-inch thick, and with the crusts removed is the way to go. If you can find brioche, that's even better. Remember, the croque is not a pick-it-up sandwich; it's a knife and fork masterpiece.

Brush both sides of the bread with butter and toast gently on the grill until golden and lightly crisp (note that I said lightly crisp; don't turn it into a big crouton).

2. Ham

The ham should be thinly sliced, but not paper-thin. Please don't buy the stuff in the cellophane pouches (next to the pre-shredded cheese). Go to the deli counter and ask them to slice some ham for you—not honey-glazed ham, not smoked ham, but uncured ham.

3. Cheese

Swiss cheese—that's the stuff with holes, right? What could be easier? That's not the cheese for a croque monsieur. The pre-sliced stuff in the grocery store is bland and doesn't melt well; it just makes a sweaty, oily mess.

The perfect cheese for your perfect sandwich is Gruyère (pronounced groo-YAIR). Named for the town of Gruyères in Switzerland, this cow's milk cheese is a pale yellow, the color of rich sweet cream. This cheese is quite firm but is still classified as a slicing cheese (as opposed to one that must be grated). It's long-aged, from six months to 300 days) and tastes of nuts and dark caramel.

4. Béchamel Sauce

Of the five mother sauces, this is indeed the simplest, and an easy one for the beginner. Only three ingredients are required—milk, flour, and butter. The key to success in the creation of this sauce is preparing the roux (rhymes with Winnie the Pooh). Watch this video which explains step-by-step how to create a perfect roux.

Béchamel Recipe

Now that you've seen the technique, here's the recipe:

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste (optional)

Directions

1. Heat the milk in a saucepan. While it is warming, melt the butter in another pan.
2. Add the flour to the melted butter and stir to create a white roux. Slowly add the heated milk to the roux, a little bit at a time, whisking all the while.
3. When the desired thickness and smoothness is achieved, bring the mix to a boil. Reduce the heat and stir frequently for 3 to 5 more minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Note that you probably won't use all of this sauce for the sandwiches. Cover the leftovers and refrigerate. Warm gently, stir in some cheese, fresh herbs, olives, sun-dried tomatoes—whatever sounds good to use and toss the warmed sauce with cooked pasta. If the sauce seems too thick stir in some milk or chicken broth.

Basic Croque Monsieur Recipe

Yield: 4 sandwiches

Ingredients

• 8 slices sandwich bread
• Softened butter (for spreading on both sides of the bread)
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 8 thin slices of uncured ham (about 6 ounces)
• 1 1/2 cups shredded Gruyère cheese (about 3 ounces)
• Béchamel sauce (see recipe above)

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Begin with the sandwich bread, sliced 1/2-inch thick, which has been buttered on both sides and lightly toasted.
3. Place the four slices of bread on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Spread with a gentle smear of Dijon mustard (not grainy, not brown, not yellow).
4. Add a layer of sliced uncured ham (uncured does not mean raw; it actually is cured but naturally, not with smoke or additives). Two thin slices are perfect.
5. Top the ham with half of the Gruyère cheese, then the other four slices of bread.
6. Cover each sandwich with a generous dollop of béchamel sauce. Cover the entire surface; don't leave any bread exposed. Top with the remaining cheese and bake for about 5 minutes or until the sandwiches are heated through.
7. Change the oven heat to broil; the sandwiches are done when the cheese is melted and the sauce is bubbly and ever-so-lightly golden. Watch carefully. Depending on the heat of your broiler it might take as little as one minute. You want golden brown, not cinders.

Of course, there are adaptations; every chef on planet earth always tries to improve on perfection. Here are a few ideas:

• Croque madame: A gently poached or sunny-side-up egg is placed atop the sandwich.
• Croque poulet: The ham is replaced with thin slices of tender, moist, sliced chicken breast.
• Croque norvegien: Smoked salmon replaces the ham.
• Croque auvergnat: Gruyère is replaced with bleu cheese.
• Croque provençal: Sweet red tomato slices and herbed mayonnaise are added.
• Croque señor: The basic sandwich gets spiced up with salsa
• Gluten-free bread is, of course, an option for those who are sensitive.
• Vegetarians can omit the ham—sauteed mushrooms or zucchini ribbons would work well.

Sources

• Zoug
• French Country Food
• The Culture Trip
• Oui Always Have Paris

© 2020 Linda Lum

Comments

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 21, 2020:

Greg, I am so happy to hear back from you. By the way, this article is now moved to the niche site Delishably. I was able to read and reply to your comment because, as author, I can still approach it from Hub Pages. Anyone else wanting to leave a comment will need to contact the author.

greg cain from Idaho, USA on October 21, 2020:

Linda - I made this for lunch today for me and my wife. A+ isn’t a high enough grade. I’m still full and really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing this! We will do it again one day soon...

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Abby, it certainly is. I hope you'll give it a try.

Abby Slutsky from America on October 20, 2020:

Looks delicious.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Kalpana, it is very good. Here's a link to help you pronounce the word correctly. https://howdoyousaythatword.com/word/croque-monsie...

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Thank you Mary. I had fun writing this one; sometimes you have to break out of simply writing recipes.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Thank you Greg. I wish you a good week as well.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Shauna, oh but of course. I want you to enjoy this.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Doris, it might take me a little while, but I will find an answer for you on that flour. Surely there MUST be a way for you to make good gravy.

Kalpana Iyer from India on October 20, 2020:

Croque Monsieur looks delicious! I am sure I am pronouncing it wrong though.

Mary Wickison from Brazil on October 20, 2020:

I'm sure glad you mentioned using utensils. My first thought was, "how am I going to get that in my mouth."

A friend of ours has brought us 'proper Gruyere' cheese. She buys it from a farmer who refuses to cut his cows horns even though the Swiss government says he has to. When we tried it, we both went silent. It was so good. It makes you realize how inferior everyday cheese can be.

I love the story at the beginning, even if it isn't true.

greg cain from Idaho, USA on October 20, 2020:

Linda - this looks like lunch for today! Or perhaps my dinner. If not today, I will make this tomorrow or the next day. I am going to try it, though, and that's certain. It looks, sounds, and smells scrumptious. I mean, I thought I could smell it. Anyway, thanks for the wonderful background and context, real or no it makes the desire to try it even greater. Good week, Linda.

Shauna L Bowling from Central Florida on October 20, 2020:

Linda, I've never had this sandwich, but looks decadently yummy. I don't know if my deli carries uncured ham. Could this be made with leftover baked ham?

Doris James MizBejabbers from Beautiful South on October 20, 2020:

It sounds pretty good, Linda, but I'll never get the chance to try the Croque Monsieur. The Croque Madam sounds even more delicious to me. Although the croques could be made on GF bread, the bechamel sauce contains flour. I have never found a good substitute for wheat flour in gravy, so I assume the same for bechamel sauce. I guess this is an opportunity to ask a foodie question: Do you know of a substitute for wheat flour in gravy, white sauce and other sauces of this type? I've tried cornstarch, but it just doesn't add a good flavor. Thanks!

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Thank you dear Pamela. I hope you have a wonderful week.

Pamela Oglesby from Sunny Florida on October 20, 2020:

When I first saw that top picture I was wondering how to get my mouth around it due to its size, but the fork and knife will fix that problem. This looks absolutely delicious. I enjoyed the story about Paris and the hotel.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Bill, you've made this old gal smile. I hope you enjoyed the story too. Have a great day my friend.

Bill Holland from Olympia, WA on October 20, 2020:

Finally, after a long wait, something I would eat, and eat with gusto! Sounds absolutely delicious to me. :) Now, if you only delivered!

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 20, 2020:

Eric, if you do happen to make this, I want to know. Will you go with the basic, or give it the Eric touch with a bit of flare--perhaps some salsa or sriracha?

Eric Dierker from Spring Valley, CA. U.S.A. on October 20, 2020:

This is doable. I love the story. It is no surprise that it was within a Latin Quarter. Did everyone take tourists there? Thanks for the tips on the cheese and sauce. I do rather boring cheese sandwiches.

We used to keep things warm on the radiator.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 19, 2020:

Thank you Flourish for your words, as sweet as you.

Linda Lum (author) from Washington State, USA on October 19, 2020:

John, you made me giggle. Heh, you're looking forward to Spring and Summer and lots of activity. Meanwhile, I'm in the doldrums and feeling all stoggy. I don't pity you at all. Eat a croque monsieur.

FlourishAnyway from USA on October 19, 2020:

The way you paint this food picture is sheer art. My husband would love this.

John Hansen from Queensland Australia on October 19, 2020:

Too delicious for words, and I’m trying to lose weight. Thanks Linda.